My own standards
Some of my practices are negotiable, others are not. I reserve the right to decline a commission based on my understanding of its details. These may include but are not limited to choice of fabric and other materials, design, and fit.
The clothing I make is stitched entirely by hand. I do not currently build “hand finished” garments. An exception to this is women’s stays, in which the boning channels are machine stitched.
I use natural fibers only, and blends thereof. Minor additions of synthetic or manmade fibers, or undesirable treatments can be an area of compromise if a customer brings me a basically suitable textile.
I stitch the clothing with natural fiber thread. I do use modern thread for basting and for applying buttons, as our linen is not nearly as strong as historical linen thread.
I am not an artist, but rather a copyist. My desire is to clothe customers in garments that are clearly mainstream eighteenth century, whether of high or low social class or income.
I do not undertake to provide documentation for the garments I make.
Finally: I am here to serve YOU, the reenactor. It is my job to make you look your best and most conformed to eighteenth century norms. There are many areas where I can accommodate your individual wishes. Please discuss these with me, especially if you have primary sources supporting your views.
Business Practices and Policies
When accepting a potential client for a commission, I take measurements suitable for the garment(s) intended. I do not begin work until I have a deposit. This may be simply the materials required; but a client’s prioritized place in my time is not assured until I receive something resembling earnest. If I am providing all of the materials the deposit will be half the price of the finished garment.
The price the customer pays includes two fittings. Sometimes I have garments approximately the correct size with me, which makes a pleasant situation for both of us. Other times it takes some time to build a trial garment. After this first fitting, significantly more time is needed for possible recutting and construction. If all goes well, the second fitting is a garment which is mostly complete and requires only minor “tweaks” and finishing.
Eighteenth century clothing typically fit closely, so that is what I do assume will be wanted. Sometimes customers gain or lose a good deal of weight between visits to me. The customer then has two choices: to take the garment sized as is and completed as best I can do, or to pay an hourly rate for whatever alterations are needed to change it to his/her current size and proper fit.
I attempt to make the burden of fittings as easy as possible on my customers by telling them when I’m going to be in their area, but it is ultimately their responsibility to travel to me.
I do realize that at a final fitting and delivery, it may not be possible to fully assess satisfaction or fit. A customer has one calendar week to contact me if uneasy about some aspect of the garment and to make arrangements to change it if desired. If I make an offer to alter something and a customer needs to decide, I need to know within three days of making that offer. Other customers, too, are waiting for my time.
Materials
I sometimes have fabric I recommend, which I sell to clients. Others of my clients enjoy shopping for their own textiles. I do reserve the right to decline working with a textile a customer purchases if I find it inappropriate or believe it won’t turn out well.
If we have agreed on a garment or project, I measure the client and provide a specific, detailed list of materials needed, including fashion fabric, linings, linen for linings or waistcoat backs, buttons, and trims. Included in the price of my work is linen thread in natural, half-bleached, or navy; buckram; brown linen for pocket bags and waistband linings. Silk thread may be included if I already own it in the correct color and weight.
It is best to purchase when it’s possible to assess the fabric in person, but this is currently quite difficult. Two sources I trust are Burnley and Trowbridge in Williamsburg, VA; and Wm Booth, Draper. Wm Booth’s presence is online and at events; currently Burnley and Trowbridge chooses not to travel. Williamsburg Marketplace (online) and also one of the shops at Colonial Williamsburg itself sell their reproduction cotton prints.
This does not mean that there isn’t good fabric available elsewhere; but beware, especially if you are new to the hobby.
A Sample Materials List
For breeches (size 40” waist)
fashion fabric, 58-60” wide: 1-1/4 yards linen, wool broadcloth, or worsted wool. Cotton twill may also be used.
thread to suit: If you are OK with the included choices, none is required. Probably you will want some for buttonholes.
buttons: four or five 3/4”-1” for waistband, thirteen to fifteen 1/2”-5/8” for remainder of the garment
For a waistcoat (size 44” chest)
fashion fabric: (will vary according to width of the fabric) 42”-45” 2.5 yards 54”-60” 1.25 yards
brown linen (NOT white) for back and lining the whole
buttons ten to sixteen 1/2”-3/4” buttons, depending on style and whether buttons are wanted on the pocket flaps
For a frock coat (size 44” chest, average height)
fashion fabric: 3 yards linen, wool broadcloth, or worsted wool
lining: one yard of brown lining if half lined; add 2-2.5 yards of shalloon or silk for skirts and sleeves if a full lining is desired
thread to suit: as above
buttons: variable according to wishes: 6-28 3/4” to 1-1/4” Late in the century a coat might not have any buttons at all.